Khartoum experiences
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Photo album - Khartoum
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Sudan, the largest country in Africa, that was until the split into Northern and Southern Sudan, is a country characterised by diversity…..old and new, modern and traditional, Muslim Arab and African Christian. There are more than 300 tribes with different languages, religions and culture, which has led to many internal conflicts, civil wars and human rights abuses. Sudan has probably more NGO’s and foreign peace makers than any other country, attempting to keep the peace and develop the South, which has been ravaged by the North for its oil reserves. During my time in Khartoum (2008), the capital of the North, there was a huge NGO and UN presence to broker peace between North and South and to support the South in its bid for independence. The Sudanese president, Omar Bashir, was indicted by the world criminal court for crimes against humanity, based on what took place in Darfur. The Southern rebels attacked Khartoum twice and emotions ran high. Yet at the same time I could roam the streets of Khartoum at any hour of day with absolute safety. As an avid photographer, I wanted to document what I saw. However I was arrested once for taking pictures in a government office section of Khartoum that was unbeknownst to me. In Sudan every resident is a possible “police man”. I was taking pictures of an old building for its architectural value, the next thing I know, a local forcefully took my camera and alerted the soldiers at a nearby base. I was held at this base in a room, although not in cuffs, praying like never before. A couple of hours later a high ranking military official interviewed me. He was actually quite friendly. I told him I was an English teacher who took pictures. They thought I was a BBC journalist trying to report on something he shouldn’t be. The misunderstanding was cleared up and the conversation became a very friendly one afterwards. At another time I was stopped by police whilst taking pictures of one of the bridges crossing the Nile into Northern Khartoum. I had to delete everything. I was told that the Southern rebels could use my photos to determine points of entry into Khartoum. They basically suspected me that I would either sell or give my photos to the South. Here I was, only an English teacher trying to photograph the Nile at sunset, being suspected of espionage. So photography became a risky almost spy like activity, which I could not deter myself from doing, due to the colorful diversity of the scenery and people. In other parts of Khartoum, at the souqs and shops I could photograph freely whatever I wanted to, even posing with locals who could not understand why a white man would roam the streets of Khartoum, even during the hottest times of the day, to explore the less touristy, off the beaten track neighborhoods,places where they would sell goats along the street and where tea ladies would sell highly sugared tea for one Sudanese pound. I wanted to experience the culture and people still devoid of modern Western influence. Traditional downtown Khartoum scenery also gave way to modern restaurants and coffee shops that compare well to the West, modern and clean places where the expats and more affluent and educated Sudanese would congregate.
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Starbucks, Steers, Debonairs, and other chain restaurants were alternated with sidewalk schwarma stands and Italian ice cream shops. Transportation methods in Khartoum is just as diverse as the people and street scenery. There are yellow taxis, Toyota Corolla models dated between 1977 and 1979, which looked like bumper cars; Amjad taxi, a half loaf bread looking mini-van; Raksha’s, a three wheeled Tuk-Tuk; donkey cars; buses, large and small; and then luxury cars that contradicted all the rest. Walking was probably the safest mode, but I did risk my life using all the modes, which helped me to improve my prayer life considerably. There are no marked lanes and drivers indicate their intentions by hooting. It’s best at times to close one’s eyes and pray for the best. My home was the top floor of the language institute I worked at. I could literally stumble from my bedroom into the classroom. Nile road was the only obstacle between me and the Nile, where I would go and run on the banks for afternoon exercise, that is if the Nile was not in flood. The flood season would see temporary farmers on the banks of the Nile being replaced by fishermen.
Khartoum, a city of diversity for the not so faint at heart, a city one cannot discover truly as a tourist in a tour bus, but a city one has to discover by foot, connect with the locals, eat the food the locals eat, and share a seat on a bus with. I did have expats friend working for NGO’s but they led a more sheltered and protected life, in compounds with security measures, being driven in NGO marked cars and attending expat events and parties, who did not as I have a more authentic experience. UN and NGO parties were characterised by huge amounts of alcohol that were ‘smuggled in’ on diplomatic planes. The locals seemed to hate NGO workers who got paid exorbitant salaries and lived like kings on funds that would have been better utilised in aid and relief, and development, as it was intended for in the first place. Sudan offered me a very different experience, one of authenticity, where it laid itself bare for discovery, which enriched me and constantly winks back at me to return once more. |